Unmasking the Culinary Crusader: A Glimpse into the Life of Washington Post's Renowned Food Critic

For nearly 25 years, Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema has been a guiding light for diners in the D.C. region, offering his honest and insightful reviews of the city's diverse culinary landscape. From high-end establishments to hidden gems, Sietsema has meticulously evaluated hundreds of restaurants, often employing creative tactics to maintain his anonymity and ensure an authentic dining experience.

Revealing the Secrets of a Culinary Sleuth

The Art of Anonymity

Sietsema's job as a food critic has often been likened to that of a spy, as he goes to great lengths to maintain his anonymity during his visits. "Over the years, I have used hair pieces, facial hair. I've used stained teeth," he revealed, recalling his early days on the job when he would scribble notes under the table and "filch" menus to ensure an unbiased assessment. The stained teeth idea, however, proved to be a bit of a challenge, as Sietsema had to remove them to eat and then carefully replace them before surveying the dining room.As technology has advanced, Sietsema has had to adapt his approach, often dining with a group or arriving late to avoid being recognized by the waitstaff. "With better technology, he knows more restaurants likely have his picture up on kitchen walls, so it's also not uncommon for him to dine with a group or show up late, once the waitstaff is set and the appetizer orders are in," the article notes.

Navigating the Evolving Culinary Landscape

Sietsema's role as a food critic has evolved alongside the ever-changing dining scene in the nation's capital. He recalls that in the early days, his first review was of The Prime Rib on K Street, as steakhouses were then considered the go-to destination for celebrations, meetings, or special occasions. However, he notes that this perception has since shifted, stating, "We can let that descriptor, 'Washington is a steakhouse town,' just die. It hasn't been true for a long time."Instead, Sietsema has witnessed the rise of neighborhood restaurants that cater to a diverse range of diners, not just those in a specific tax bracket. "What we have now is these really great, solid, middle-tier restaurants. Places where you would choose to go if you don't feel like cooking on a Tuesday or Wednesday night," he observed.

Expanding the Culinary Horizons

Sietsema's influence extends beyond the boundaries of the nation's capital, as he has also observed the growth of exceptional dining options in the surrounding suburbs. From the "Thai plus Laotian" restaurant Padeak in Arlington to the Greek restaurant Melina in North Bethesda, Sietsema has highlighted the abundance of high-quality dining experiences that are now accessible to those who prefer to stay close to home."There are dozens of places like that. That means you can stay close to home and eat well at the same time," he said, underscoring the remarkable culinary evolution that has taken place in the region.

Celebrating Enduring Excellence and Emerging Talent

As Sietsema celebrates his 25th year at the Washington Post, he is taking a reflective approach to his annual guide for foodies. In "The 40 best restaurants in and around D.C.," he aims to strike a balance between showcasing classic establishments and highlighting the newcomers that have made a lasting impact.Sietsema's reverence for the enduring excellence of restaurants like OBELISK and its renowned five-course Italian dinners, as well as The Bombay Club's acclaimed Indian cuisine, is palpable. "I look at them, I think, 'Wow, to be able to do something so well at such a good, high level for such a long time, is really an honor,'" he said.At the same time, Sietsema is eager to shine a spotlight on the rising stars of the culinary world, such as Chicatana, a Mexican restaurant that opened during the pandemic in Columbia Heights. "I'm celebrating Chicatana, which is owned by three young guys who have worked hard, kept their nose the grindstone, and are quietly doing a fabulous job of serving Mexican food," he said.

The Critic's Critic: Navigating the Evolving Landscape of Food Reviews

As newspapers across the country continue to scale back their food criticism coverage, Sietsema is grateful for the unwavering support he receives from the Washington Post. "I think the Washington Post treats restaurant criticism as seriously as it does government and politics, which we are best known for," he said, underscoring the publication's commitment to providing its readers with comprehensive and well-researched culinary insights.This commitment is reflected in the meticulous approach Sietsema takes to his reviews, visiting each restaurant multiple times and dining with a group to ensure a thorough and unbiased assessment. "A restaurant on Monday night is much different than a restaurant on Saturday night. Dining by yourself at the bar is a much different experience than dining with four or six people in the dining room," he explained.In the age of social media and instant feedback, Sietsema has also had to navigate the evolving landscape of food criticism, where his reviews are subject to public scrutiny and debate. "I think it's kind of fun, because years ago, if people had a beef with a restaurant critic, they would call the restaurant critic, they would write in," he said. "Now … if you read the comments following a review, we're all being reviewed, right?"As Sietsema continues to guide his readers through the ever-changing culinary landscape of the nation's capital and beyond, his unwavering dedication to his craft and his commitment to providing honest, insightful, and impactful reviews have cemented his status as a true culinary crusader.