‘Very Roman, very Bulgari’: Mary Katrantzou on the ancient roots of her opulent first accessories collection for Bulgari

2024-10-10

Bulgari's Captivating Calla Collection: A Mosaic of Roman Elegance

Nestled just south of the iconic Colosseum in Rome lies the Terme di Caracalla, a grand complex of ancient Roman baths that once served as a hub of leisure and relaxation for the city's residents. It is from this historic site that fashion designer Mary Katrantzou, recently appointed as Bulgari's creative director for leather goods and accessories, drew inspiration for her debut collection for the renowned Roman jewelry house.

Unveiling the Calla: A Captivating Fusion of Ancient and Modern

Embracing Bulgari's Roman Roots

Katrantzou's "Calla" collection for Bulgari is a testament to the brand's deep-rooted connection to the city of Rome. The designer was captivated by the intricate fan-shaped designs found on the floors of the Terme di Caracalla's western entrance palestra, a mosaic masterpiece that had previously inspired Bulgari's "Divas Dream" jewelry collection in 2016. By translating the essence of these ancient mosaics into her accessories, Katrantzou aims to create a tangible link between Bulgari's heritage and a fresh, modern identity for the brand.

Calla: A Symbol of Magnificence

The collection's name, "Calla," is a nod to both the Terme di Caracalla and the calla lily, a flower that also served as a source of inspiration. The word "calla" itself translates from Greek as "magnificent beauty," a fitting descriptor for the captivating designs that adorn Katrantzou's creations. The "Calla" motif, with its sensual curves and feminine versatility, is further likened to the leaf of the ginkgo tree, a symbol of strength and resilience.

Crafting Timeless Accessories

Katrantzou's approach to designing the "Calla" collection is rooted in storytelling and craftsmanship, two elements that she believes are essential to creating accessories that transcend the seasonal scope of fashion. Each piece, handcrafted in Bulgari's Florence atelier, is imbued with the brand's expertise in metalwork, resulting in near-unparalleled clasps, chains, and fastenings that elevate the overall design.

Blending Tradition and Innovation

Katrantzou's challenge in translating Bulgari's codes into accessories was to find the delicate balance between tradition and innovation. She sought to explore the rich heritage of the brand while pushing beyond it, creating a subtle, almost imperceptible space where craftsmanship and modernity coexist. The result is a collection that seamlessly integrates Bulgari's iconic snake motif and the captivating "Calla" design, offering wearers a piece of jewelry-like beauty in their everyday lives.

Capturing the Essence of Bulgari

The "Calla" collection's color palette draws inspiration from the hues of the Roman baths, as well as the vibrant shades that have become synonymous with Bulgari. Rich emerald green, deep amethyst, shimmering gold, and soft pearl white elements come together to create a collection that is undeniably Roman and quintessentially Bulgari.

Accessories as Wearable Art

Katrantzou's vision for the "Calla" collection is to create accessories that transcend the traditional notion of leather goods. She aims to imbue each piece with a sense of artistry and individuality, making them feel like an extension of the wearer's identity. By drawing inspiration from the grandeur of the Terme di Caracalla and the timeless elegance of Bulgari, Katrantzou has crafted a collection that elevates the everyday into a celebration of Roman heritage and modern style.

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